Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
